Roast Dinner: £8.95
Avg drinks prices: Bottle Carlsberg £1.25; pint lager £3.05; bottled cider £3.25; soft drinks £1.65
Desserts: Approx £3.50
When I moved to Hove I didn't hold out much hope for the bars and pubs within a few minutes' walk of my front door. For the most part they look like beer palaces - the type frequented by old lushes with veiny noses who sit outside the doors smoking Woodbines and smelling of wee or cocky chavs wearing battered Reebok Classics and trackie bottoms. Not that I'm a snob.
However, since then I have been pleasantly surprised by both The Ginger Pig and The Foragers, and so, one post-flu, rainy, cold afternoon, the boyfriend and I decided to take the path of least resistance and head to the localest of our locals - The Alibi. Resplendent on the corner of Victoria Terrace with a great view of the local Texaco garage and the run-down King Alfred's centre, from the outside it doesn't look much. However, a week or so earlier I'd spent a lovely snowy afternoon in there and sampled their excellent chips n' cheese, hospitality and selection of board games, so in a time of laziness and boredom it was the natural choice. Plus, at a whole £2 cheaper than the cheapest meat options in the other Hove establishments, the price also appealed. It's rare to find a roast for less than a tenner nowadays.
The Alibi is a surprise to behold - with its open fire, stack of old-school games (Guess Who, anyone?), huge outdoor space and comfy sofas, its exterior is deceiving. The clientele, though slightly chavtastic, are friendly, sociable and fun and the bar staff cannot do enough for you. They stock a wide range of lagers including cherry beer and Staropramen on tap and whilst their ales aren't up to much, you are still spoilt for choice. Best of all, if you're a lager fan you can pick up a bottle of Carlsberg for just £1.25 - student prices at their best. Sometimes it's worth the trek out of Brighton. They also do a free chilli night every Monday and have a 'build your own burger' menu, boasting a wide range of toppings and flavours, in addition to a highly appealing 'pie of the day' and sausages and mash served in a giant Yorkie. Ace.
However, we decided to stick with the Sunday tradition and plumped for the roast. I went for lamb, the boyfriend went for the pork, and expecting perhaps a little less than usual, we waited for our food to arrive. When it did, we were not disappointed - what sat before us was good, old-fashioned, Nanna's-house-at-the-weekend fare - plump slices of meat, piles of boiled carrots, crispy spuds and a nice, puffed-up Yorkie. Nothing artistic or gourmet, but just the ticket when you've just got over the 'flu and are feeling a little fragile.
The meat wasn't outstanding, but it wasn't boil-in-the-bag either - though it could have been a little more tender, it wasn't fatty or leathery. The boyfriend's pork was simple and salty, though the crackling was a little rubbery and could have benefited from a little longer in the oven. The gravy was proper, meaty gravy complete with a subtle flavour of rosemary and thyme, which complemented the potatoes perfectly.
Speaking of the potatoes, these were wonderfully crisp and obviously basted in dripping - chewy in the middle and browned at the edges, almost deep-fried in appearance but with a beefy flavour, if a little dry in the middle (though the gravy helped assuage this). They sat alongside crisp, al dente broccoli (just the way I like it), carrots that still had their bite and a good pile of peas - an unusual addition, but I was willing to give it a go. However, here was where I was let down - the chef, in his infinite wisdom, had decided to mix the peas with a generous dollop of mint sauce, and in my eyes, mint sauce could well have been invented by the devil himself. I couldn't bring myself to swallow them down, which was disappointing as I really had got a taste for peas over the course of the meal.
The Yorkies were large and puffy, but evidently not home-made. They could have been a lot worse - The Mesmerist's, for example, were small and unimpressive - at least these were of a decent size. There was a distinctly supermarket-y taste about them, though and it really did let the plate down.
To look at and to eat, this really is good, old fashioned, no-nonsense food. The Alibi doesn't try to dress up its food or add impressive flavour combinations, but what it does do is cook the ingredients it does have to perfection. The meat may not be locally sourced and the veg may be plain, but there's nothing mushy, burned or overcooked about it - certainly better than many could do themselves.
What makes The Alibi worth the visit isn't really the food, though - it's the atmosphere. It's rare in Brighton to find a real, old-man pub that isn't full of lushes or 'locals', which serves edible fare and has staff willing to give you the time of day. The Alibi manages to maintain a friendly, local atmosphere without making you feel outcast, and I'd definitely recommend it for a swift afternoon stop-off.
6/10
22 Victoria Terrace, Hove BN3 2WB
Tel: 01273 733983
Credit/debit cards accepted
23 December, 2010
07 December, 2010
The Mesmerist
Roast Dinner: £10.95
Avg drinks prices: Bottle cider £3.60; draught ale £3.40; soft drinks £2.10
Desserts: All £4.50
The Mesmerist is Brighton's newest pub - situated on the site of the old Frankie and Benny's on the South Lanes, just over from the Town Hall, it is a welcome break from the usual haunts that side of town - there's only so much Cafe Rouge, Zizzi or Pablo's a person can take before they start to crave something a little bit different. The Mesmerist is just that - with bells on. With it's unique decor - a full suit of armour being the focal point - and it's claim to be Brighton's first 'burleque-themed public house', it truly is, well... Mesmerising. Boasting a weekly magic club, its own magazine and frequent rockabilly and jazz evenings, it's all very much what Brighton is about and what we have been sorely missing the last few months in the wake of Tesco and Sainsbury's taking over every available patch of land. Am I glad these people got this site instead of the Tesco demons? Hell yes.
What strikes me as impressive about the place is that despite it's unusual, slightly scenester-ish decor, it's not frequented by d*ckheads. Instead, the clientele are from all generations and walks of life, and this, I believe, is down to the staff. Friendly, open and no-nonsense, they welcome you with open arms and one gets the feeling that this is not simply because they've only just opened. The seating is plentiful and varies from tall tables to slouchy sofas, and the space has been utilised well. The bar is huge and well-stocked, and even the loos are a little bit magical.
We entered on impulse one hungover Sunday afternoon - it was 2 o'clock and neither of us could be arsed to cook, and having spent a couple of fun evenings in the Mesmerist we decided to give it a go. We took a sofa table by the window and a waitress was over within minutes. Friendly, affable and sweet, she referred to us as 'sweetheart' and 'darling' (something I personally love) in a way that wasn't pretentious or idiotic. She wasn't perturbed when we said we didn't want to order anything until the arrival of my brother, and simply left us alone until we called her over when he arrived.
The roasts on offer were the usual, and I plumped for the lamb. My partner went for the pork belly and my brother, the beef. We also ordered drinks, which were also brought to the table - the only time we had to get up was to use the loo, which can only be a bonus. The great thing about this place is that they also run their regular menu on a Sunday, which boasts a selection of pies and mash - on offer this particular day was chicken and asparagus and beef & ale - so there truly is something for everyone. They call gravy, gravy and make no bones about what to expect - no fancy language or dressing up of the menu (I love that they gave the anglicised version of moules, but spelled 'muscles').
Our roasts took about tweny minutes to arrive - spot on. Not so long as for me to become rage-filled with hunger, but not too quick so as to send the message that the food has gone from freezer to microwave to plate. I was impressed. A nice, ample portion of lamb, slightly pink in the centre, sat atop a selection of colourful (if slightly odd) veg. My partner's pork belly was magnificent - crispy, nicely browned and salted to perfection; pink in the middle and still succulent. The beef was medium rare and served in thick wedges. Props to the chef, as all of the meat was wonderful. The veg, on the other hand, was a little odd - we had the regular carrots and roast spuds, which were beautiful - the carrots were buttered and sweet, and the potatoes crisp and fluffy - though at 2 small carrots and potatoes per plate, I thought they were being awfully stingy. The rest, however, was a bit weird - we had cabbage, which was apparently spiced but tasted like liquorice, and some odd cheesy sauce concoction which was smeared on the bottom of the plate. Put together, these were definitely an acquired taste - one I couldn't get used to. It was all just a bit... off. The Yorkies were also a bit of a letdown - to quote a friend who ate there last week, "they're distinctly Aunt Bessie-ish," a little too uniform and overdone for me to truly believe they were homemade.
Despite this, the quality of the meat - locally sourced - made up for the weird taste experience of the veg. We decided to share a dessert, despite the fact that the roast was more than enough - I always eat more on a hangover. Man, am I glad we did. We went for a cherry bakewell slice (an odd one for a pub to serve) with cream, and it was massive. Huge. It was also beautiful. Whatever you do, just don't try to eat a dessert at this place alone, unless you're twenty stone and used to humungous portions.
To summarise, The Mesmerist is a welcome addition to Brighton, especially during this uncertain time, when the whole city seems to be succumbing to the lure of consumerism and is losing its individuality. Despite the veg being as odd as the decor, I'd fully recommend a visit for a truly unique and friendly experience. We even had children sat next to us who were quiet and well-behaved. It's like the whole place is under a spell.
And with The Mesmerist having its very own magic club, maybe it is...
8/10
1-3 Prince Albert St, Brighton BN1 1HE
Tel: 01273 328542
Credit/debit cards accepted
www.drinkinbrighton.co.uk/mesmerist
Avg drinks prices: Bottle cider £3.60; draught ale £3.40; soft drinks £2.10
Desserts: All £4.50
The Mesmerist is Brighton's newest pub - situated on the site of the old Frankie and Benny's on the South Lanes, just over from the Town Hall, it is a welcome break from the usual haunts that side of town - there's only so much Cafe Rouge, Zizzi or Pablo's a person can take before they start to crave something a little bit different. The Mesmerist is just that - with bells on. With it's unique decor - a full suit of armour being the focal point - and it's claim to be Brighton's first 'burleque-themed public house', it truly is, well... Mesmerising. Boasting a weekly magic club, its own magazine and frequent rockabilly and jazz evenings, it's all very much what Brighton is about and what we have been sorely missing the last few months in the wake of Tesco and Sainsbury's taking over every available patch of land. Am I glad these people got this site instead of the Tesco demons? Hell yes.
What strikes me as impressive about the place is that despite it's unusual, slightly scenester-ish decor, it's not frequented by d*ckheads. Instead, the clientele are from all generations and walks of life, and this, I believe, is down to the staff. Friendly, open and no-nonsense, they welcome you with open arms and one gets the feeling that this is not simply because they've only just opened. The seating is plentiful and varies from tall tables to slouchy sofas, and the space has been utilised well. The bar is huge and well-stocked, and even the loos are a little bit magical.
We entered on impulse one hungover Sunday afternoon - it was 2 o'clock and neither of us could be arsed to cook, and having spent a couple of fun evenings in the Mesmerist we decided to give it a go. We took a sofa table by the window and a waitress was over within minutes. Friendly, affable and sweet, she referred to us as 'sweetheart' and 'darling' (something I personally love) in a way that wasn't pretentious or idiotic. She wasn't perturbed when we said we didn't want to order anything until the arrival of my brother, and simply left us alone until we called her over when he arrived.
The roasts on offer were the usual, and I plumped for the lamb. My partner went for the pork belly and my brother, the beef. We also ordered drinks, which were also brought to the table - the only time we had to get up was to use the loo, which can only be a bonus. The great thing about this place is that they also run their regular menu on a Sunday, which boasts a selection of pies and mash - on offer this particular day was chicken and asparagus and beef & ale - so there truly is something for everyone. They call gravy, gravy and make no bones about what to expect - no fancy language or dressing up of the menu (I love that they gave the anglicised version of moules, but spelled 'muscles').
Our roasts took about tweny minutes to arrive - spot on. Not so long as for me to become rage-filled with hunger, but not too quick so as to send the message that the food has gone from freezer to microwave to plate. I was impressed. A nice, ample portion of lamb, slightly pink in the centre, sat atop a selection of colourful (if slightly odd) veg. My partner's pork belly was magnificent - crispy, nicely browned and salted to perfection; pink in the middle and still succulent. The beef was medium rare and served in thick wedges. Props to the chef, as all of the meat was wonderful. The veg, on the other hand, was a little odd - we had the regular carrots and roast spuds, which were beautiful - the carrots were buttered and sweet, and the potatoes crisp and fluffy - though at 2 small carrots and potatoes per plate, I thought they were being awfully stingy. The rest, however, was a bit weird - we had cabbage, which was apparently spiced but tasted like liquorice, and some odd cheesy sauce concoction which was smeared on the bottom of the plate. Put together, these were definitely an acquired taste - one I couldn't get used to. It was all just a bit... off. The Yorkies were also a bit of a letdown - to quote a friend who ate there last week, "they're distinctly Aunt Bessie-ish," a little too uniform and overdone for me to truly believe they were homemade.
Despite this, the quality of the meat - locally sourced - made up for the weird taste experience of the veg. We decided to share a dessert, despite the fact that the roast was more than enough - I always eat more on a hangover. Man, am I glad we did. We went for a cherry bakewell slice (an odd one for a pub to serve) with cream, and it was massive. Huge. It was also beautiful. Whatever you do, just don't try to eat a dessert at this place alone, unless you're twenty stone and used to humungous portions.
To summarise, The Mesmerist is a welcome addition to Brighton, especially during this uncertain time, when the whole city seems to be succumbing to the lure of consumerism and is losing its individuality. Despite the veg being as odd as the decor, I'd fully recommend a visit for a truly unique and friendly experience. We even had children sat next to us who were quiet and well-behaved. It's like the whole place is under a spell.
And with The Mesmerist having its very own magic club, maybe it is...
8/10
1-3 Prince Albert St, Brighton BN1 1HE
Tel: 01273 328542
Credit/debit cards accepted
www.drinkinbrighton.co.uk/mesmerist
The Ginger Pig
Roast Dinner: £10.00 (Fried sage polenta dish) to £16.00 (Scotch beef)
Avg drinks prices: Bottle house wine £16.00; draught lager £4.05; soft drinks £2.90
Desserts: £5.00 - £7.00
I'd been looking forward to this. The Gingerman restaurants and public houses are a Sussex institution, and when we moved into a flat that was just over the road from The Ginger Pig, we'd made a vow to visit as soon as possible. However, warm weather just didn't lend itself well to a roast and so we had no choice but to wait it out, until the temperature dropped and it was no longer time for a barbeque. I mean, this is an expensive place - we weren't willing to part with our hard-earned until the timing was exactly right.
That time came with the arrival of the in-laws - they were looking for somewhere lovely to eat, and we knew just the right place. We made our booking and headed there at 1pm - it's wise to get in there early, as it's a popular place and if you don't, you run the risk of choosing from a very limited menu.
We spent fifteen minutes at the bar before sitting down, which was no big deal - they have an amazing selection of drinks, including organic soft drinks of such adventurous flavours as orange, ginger and elderflower or mango and lime. Not your average coke on tap, then. The selection of ales was varied and unique; none of your same-old, same-old here. The bar staff were attentive and polite and actually took the time to talk to us, and even when we overstayed our welcome (our table was ready and they have an extremely quick turnaround due to the popularity of the place), they did not push us to sit.
When we got to our table, I was immediately preoccupied with the feel of the place - it's a little like a canteen. If you like your roasts in a quiet, relaxed setting, this is not the place for you. The wooden floors and high ceilings provide ample opportunity for the sounds of chatter, cutlery and the clinking of glasses to carry in the air. However, I liked it - it reminded me of a French cafe, or an Italian trattoria. OK, so we needed to raise our voices at times, but rather that than complete silence, yes? Well, I'm biased, I suppose.
I chose to go for the traditional beef dinner, my partner the loin of pork and the in-laws the fish and the beef. The interesting thing about the Ginger Pig's menu is the disclaimer at the bottom that states that as all meat comes from a local farm, some game dishes 'may contain shot'. You can't say fresher than that. Hey, at least you know it's organic and local, even if you do end up with lead in your teeth. The waitress was patient and attentive and not at all pushy or rude, even when we couldn't decide what to have (honestly, we're the worst customers ever). She was on hand to offer advice and even make the choice for me when I was truly stumped as to whether to go for the lamb or beef - in my eyes, a good waiter or waitress will always push you towards their favourite, and enthusiastically so, with the ability to comment on flavour, texture and the history of the meat. She knew it all.
I was expecting brilliance, beauty and an explosion of flavour - the menu, being a typical Gingerman menu, promised original pairings of unusual tastes; a description consisting of extremely middle-class sounding words and farmer-speak that the average Joe would have trouble deciphering. That's one of my problems with this place - a roast is surely just meat and two veg, at the end of the day, and calling a gravy a jus does not detract from the fact that it is simply a gravy. The same gravy you'd get anywhere else - meat juice, stock, a bit of wine - why dress it up? I like the word gravy. It's warm, and reminds me of childhood Sundays. I bet 90% of the population would say the same.
When my food came, I was slightly disappointed. The first thing to stand out to me was the sheer amount of meat - this was not a bad thing. My beef was pink and bloody in the centre and crisp on the outside, served in whopping great slabs at least an inch thick. The pork loin was juicy and salted and the fish was whole, crisp and stuffed with herbs. However, the veg was a different story. I know I said a roast is just a simple meat and two veg, but these guys take that phrase a little too seriously, as that was exactly what I was served - roast potatoes, carrots and green beans (OK, that's three, but I rarely count potatoes as true veg - how can something so full of carbs ever be good for you?). The carrots and beans were boiled - there was no sense of adventure, no explosion of flavour, no assault on the senses - it was almost as if they'd put so much effort into the meat, they'd forgotten the importance of the veg in the whole thing. I mean, to me, vegetables are the backbone of the roast - in my time eating roast dinners, I've encountered honeyed carrots, roast parsnips, cider and cinnamon cabbage, braised leeks, roasted butternut squash - a good chef can make a simple green bean seem like nothing else. It was what I'd expected of the Ginger Pig - a riot in my mouth; especially as I was paying £16.00 for the privilege - but it just didn't happen. It was slightly lazy and did nothing for me. Saying that, the potatoes were crisp, slightly burned and gooey in the centre, cooked in beef dripping and sprinkled with herbs and a generous helping of salt and pepper. The gravy was sweet and exactly right in the seasoning department - not too powerful but a nice backdrop to the whole thing. The Yorkie was also a highlight - HUGE, crisp and slightly soggy underneath (this is never a bad thing), soaking up the gravy like a sponge. It was an absolute delight to eat and a welcome change from the overcooked, overcrisp excuses that some places serve. They'd definitely practised the recipe, and the time spent paid off.
For all my criticism, the roast was a good size - unlike the Foragers, you got enough food for your money to fill you up - and I did feel like I got my money's worth as the amount of beef was simply epic. The potatoes were special and the table service adds a certain something to the experience - it's nice to be waited on in a pub. The drinks were different and the service was quick and polite, with smiling staff always on hand to help and assist. The Yorkies alone are a reason to go!
If you like your meat plentiful, organic and local and you don't really mind having a simple veg accompaniment, then I fully recommend this place - if only to make you grin on a rainy Sunday.
7.5/10
3 Hove St, Hove BN3 2TR
Tel: 01273 736123
Booking absolutely essential, even for a party of two; credit/debit cards accepted
http://www.gingermanrestaurants.com/
Avg drinks prices: Bottle house wine £16.00; draught lager £4.05; soft drinks £2.90
Desserts: £5.00 - £7.00
I'd been looking forward to this. The Gingerman restaurants and public houses are a Sussex institution, and when we moved into a flat that was just over the road from The Ginger Pig, we'd made a vow to visit as soon as possible. However, warm weather just didn't lend itself well to a roast and so we had no choice but to wait it out, until the temperature dropped and it was no longer time for a barbeque. I mean, this is an expensive place - we weren't willing to part with our hard-earned until the timing was exactly right.
That time came with the arrival of the in-laws - they were looking for somewhere lovely to eat, and we knew just the right place. We made our booking and headed there at 1pm - it's wise to get in there early, as it's a popular place and if you don't, you run the risk of choosing from a very limited menu.
We spent fifteen minutes at the bar before sitting down, which was no big deal - they have an amazing selection of drinks, including organic soft drinks of such adventurous flavours as orange, ginger and elderflower or mango and lime. Not your average coke on tap, then. The selection of ales was varied and unique; none of your same-old, same-old here. The bar staff were attentive and polite and actually took the time to talk to us, and even when we overstayed our welcome (our table was ready and they have an extremely quick turnaround due to the popularity of the place), they did not push us to sit.
When we got to our table, I was immediately preoccupied with the feel of the place - it's a little like a canteen. If you like your roasts in a quiet, relaxed setting, this is not the place for you. The wooden floors and high ceilings provide ample opportunity for the sounds of chatter, cutlery and the clinking of glasses to carry in the air. However, I liked it - it reminded me of a French cafe, or an Italian trattoria. OK, so we needed to raise our voices at times, but rather that than complete silence, yes? Well, I'm biased, I suppose.
I chose to go for the traditional beef dinner, my partner the loin of pork and the in-laws the fish and the beef. The interesting thing about the Ginger Pig's menu is the disclaimer at the bottom that states that as all meat comes from a local farm, some game dishes 'may contain shot'. You can't say fresher than that. Hey, at least you know it's organic and local, even if you do end up with lead in your teeth. The waitress was patient and attentive and not at all pushy or rude, even when we couldn't decide what to have (honestly, we're the worst customers ever). She was on hand to offer advice and even make the choice for me when I was truly stumped as to whether to go for the lamb or beef - in my eyes, a good waiter or waitress will always push you towards their favourite, and enthusiastically so, with the ability to comment on flavour, texture and the history of the meat. She knew it all.
I was expecting brilliance, beauty and an explosion of flavour - the menu, being a typical Gingerman menu, promised original pairings of unusual tastes; a description consisting of extremely middle-class sounding words and farmer-speak that the average Joe would have trouble deciphering. That's one of my problems with this place - a roast is surely just meat and two veg, at the end of the day, and calling a gravy a jus does not detract from the fact that it is simply a gravy. The same gravy you'd get anywhere else - meat juice, stock, a bit of wine - why dress it up? I like the word gravy. It's warm, and reminds me of childhood Sundays. I bet 90% of the population would say the same.
When my food came, I was slightly disappointed. The first thing to stand out to me was the sheer amount of meat - this was not a bad thing. My beef was pink and bloody in the centre and crisp on the outside, served in whopping great slabs at least an inch thick. The pork loin was juicy and salted and the fish was whole, crisp and stuffed with herbs. However, the veg was a different story. I know I said a roast is just a simple meat and two veg, but these guys take that phrase a little too seriously, as that was exactly what I was served - roast potatoes, carrots and green beans (OK, that's three, but I rarely count potatoes as true veg - how can something so full of carbs ever be good for you?). The carrots and beans were boiled - there was no sense of adventure, no explosion of flavour, no assault on the senses - it was almost as if they'd put so much effort into the meat, they'd forgotten the importance of the veg in the whole thing. I mean, to me, vegetables are the backbone of the roast - in my time eating roast dinners, I've encountered honeyed carrots, roast parsnips, cider and cinnamon cabbage, braised leeks, roasted butternut squash - a good chef can make a simple green bean seem like nothing else. It was what I'd expected of the Ginger Pig - a riot in my mouth; especially as I was paying £16.00 for the privilege - but it just didn't happen. It was slightly lazy and did nothing for me. Saying that, the potatoes were crisp, slightly burned and gooey in the centre, cooked in beef dripping and sprinkled with herbs and a generous helping of salt and pepper. The gravy was sweet and exactly right in the seasoning department - not too powerful but a nice backdrop to the whole thing. The Yorkie was also a highlight - HUGE, crisp and slightly soggy underneath (this is never a bad thing), soaking up the gravy like a sponge. It was an absolute delight to eat and a welcome change from the overcooked, overcrisp excuses that some places serve. They'd definitely practised the recipe, and the time spent paid off.
For all my criticism, the roast was a good size - unlike the Foragers, you got enough food for your money to fill you up - and I did feel like I got my money's worth as the amount of beef was simply epic. The potatoes were special and the table service adds a certain something to the experience - it's nice to be waited on in a pub. The drinks were different and the service was quick and polite, with smiling staff always on hand to help and assist. The Yorkies alone are a reason to go!
If you like your meat plentiful, organic and local and you don't really mind having a simple veg accompaniment, then I fully recommend this place - if only to make you grin on a rainy Sunday.
7.5/10
3 Hove St, Hove BN3 2TR
Tel: 01273 736123
Booking absolutely essential, even for a party of two; credit/debit cards accepted
http://www.gingermanrestaurants.com/
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