The Mesmerist

Roast Dinner: £10.95
Avg drinks prices: Bottle cider £3.60; draught ale £3.40; soft drinks £2.10
Desserts: All £4.50

The Mesmerist is Brighton's newest pub - situated on the site of the old Frankie and Benny's on the South Lanes, just over from the Town Hall, it is a welcome break from the usual haunts that side of town - there's only so much Cafe Rouge, Zizzi or Pablo's a person can take before they start to crave something a little bit different.  The Mesmerist is just that - with bells on.  With it's unique decor - a full suit of armour being the focal point - and it's claim to be Brighton's first 'burleque-themed public house', it truly is, well... Mesmerising.  Boasting a weekly magic club, its own magazine and frequent rockabilly and jazz evenings, it's all very much what Brighton is about and what we have been sorely missing the last few months in the wake of Tesco and Sainsbury's taking over every available patch of land.  Am I glad these people got this site instead of the Tesco demons?  Hell yes. 

What strikes me as impressive about the place is that despite it's unusual, slightly scenester-ish decor, it's not frequented by d*ckheads.  Instead, the clientele are from all generations and walks of life, and this, I believe, is down to the staff.  Friendly, open and no-nonsense, they welcome you with open arms and one gets the feeling that this is not simply because they've only just opened.  The seating is plentiful and varies from tall tables to slouchy sofas, and the space has been utilised well.  The bar is huge and well-stocked, and even the loos are a little bit magical.

We entered on impulse one hungover Sunday afternoon - it was 2 o'clock and neither of us could be arsed to cook, and having spent a couple of fun evenings in the Mesmerist we decided to give it a go.  We took a sofa table by the window and a waitress was over within minutes.  Friendly, affable and sweet, she referred to us as 'sweetheart' and 'darling' (something I personally love) in a way that wasn't pretentious or idiotic.  She wasn't perturbed when we said we didn't want to order anything until the arrival of my brother, and simply left us alone until we called her over when he arrived.

The roasts on offer were the usual, and I plumped for the lamb.  My partner went for the pork belly and my brother, the beef.  We also ordered drinks, which were also brought to the table - the only time we had to get up was to use the loo, which can only be a bonus.  The great thing about this place is that they also run their regular menu on a Sunday, which boasts a selection of pies and mash - on offer this particular day was chicken and asparagus and beef & ale - so there truly is something for everyone.  They call gravy, gravy and make no bones about what to expect - no fancy language or dressing up of the menu (I love that they gave the anglicised version of moules, but spelled 'muscles').

Our roasts took about tweny minutes to arrive - spot on.  Not so long as for me to become rage-filled with hunger, but not too quick so as to send the message that the food has gone from freezer to microwave to plate.  I was impressed.  A nice, ample portion of lamb, slightly pink in the centre, sat atop a selection of colourful (if slightly odd) veg.  My partner's pork belly was magnificent - crispy, nicely browned and salted to perfection; pink in the middle and still succulent.  The beef was medium rare and served in thick wedges.  Props to the chef, as all of the meat was wonderful.  The veg, on the other hand, was a little odd - we had the regular carrots and roast spuds, which were beautiful - the carrots were buttered and sweet, and the potatoes crisp and fluffy - though at 2 small carrots and potatoes per plate, I thought they were being awfully stingy.  The rest, however, was a bit weird - we had cabbage, which was apparently spiced but tasted like liquorice, and some odd cheesy sauce concoction which was smeared on the bottom of the plate.  Put together, these were definitely an acquired taste - one I couldn't get used to.  It was all just a bit... off.  The Yorkies were also a bit of a letdown - to quote a friend who ate there last week, "they're distinctly Aunt Bessie-ish," a little too uniform and overdone for me to truly believe they were homemade.

Despite this, the quality of the meat - locally sourced - made up for the weird taste experience of the veg.  We decided to share a dessert, despite the fact that the roast was more than enough - I always eat more on a hangover.  Man, am I glad we did.  We went for a cherry bakewell slice (an odd one for a pub to serve) with cream, and it was massive.  Huge.  It was also beautiful.  Whatever you do, just don't try to eat a dessert at this place alone, unless you're twenty stone and used to humungous portions. 

To summarise, The Mesmerist is a welcome addition to Brighton, especially during this uncertain time, when the whole city seems to be succumbing to the lure of consumerism and is losing its individuality.  Despite the veg being as odd as the decor, I'd fully recommend a visit for a truly unique and friendly experience.  We even had children sat next to us who were quiet and well-behaved.  It's like the whole place is under a spell. 

And with The Mesmerist having its very own magic club, maybe it is...

8/10

1-3 Prince Albert St, Brighton BN1 1HE
Tel: 01273 328542
Credit/debit cards accepted
www.drinkinbrighton.co.uk/mesmerist